Back in the US-for 1 week now and still feeling the effects of traveling for 9 weeks.
But I've procrastinated long enough in posting, this my last post about Guatemala. It's almost heart-wrenching to write as I have to admit to myself that my time in Guatemala is over and it was a life-changing journey for me. The warmness I feel for the people will never leave me.
So, about my last week. It wasn't my original intention to spend it in Antigua where I had already spent the majority of my trip but I felt drawn there, it was like coming home. I met with my Spanish teacher, Mayra, whom I adore. She has so much energy and is so fun. I had many heartfelt discussions with my host mother, Maritza, who invited me over for lunch, the big meal of the day, and she thanked me graciously for accepting her invitation. When I left, she was crying and saying you are a part of my family and I love you!! I know this has something to do with the Ladino culture but she was like a Mom to me, a great listener and encourager, even in my broken Spanish and her limited English. She encouraged me to do what I knew I must upon returning home, even as she had gone through something similar and more painful. Antigua and the Guatemalan travel world is so small that I kept running into people I knew from the various portions of my trip. Like Jennie from New York, Molly from California, Marjolein from Holland, Marcel from Lichtenstein, Freddy from Germany and more. I created this community. Me, the girl who doesn't want to place roots anywhere. It was difficult to leave to say the least. On my flight home, I couldn't tear myself away from glancing at those volcanoes like I would never see them again!
On the flip side, there are some things I won't miss such as:
being afraid to eat
scarcity of hot showers
throwing toilet paper in the trash, not the toilet
brushing my teeth with bottled water
never walking by myself at night
And, yes, I had my fair share of stomach problems for which I am still getting over. I had a parasite my last week which hopefully has been fully treated with the antibiotics that I took. Even with all of this and the difficulty traveling throughout the country due to their infrastructure and my motion sickness, I adore Guatemala. And am forever grateful to Ryan and my employer for giving me the chance to explore myself by myself for an extended time. The intention of this trip was a sort of marriage sabbatical/realize my dreams of speaking another language while living in a foreign country to see if I'd one day like to be an ex-pat. What I found out instead was my deep love for travel (yeah, I know, everyone already knows this about me but I don't want to just do it for vacation, it needs to be a focus of my life somehow) and meeting local people and hearing everyone's stories as well as who I am as a person. All of this made me realize I could not go back to my past life for many reasons which are entirely too personal for this blog. And believe me, I know, it was a good life with great friends and family who I will more than likely hurt in this process. Suffice it to say, many changes are in store for me. I'm incredibly excited in some ways but fearful as I do not know what my future holds but this is the first time in my life I've felt free and open to whatever life has to offer. So, to quote my friend Kim: Buckle up, girlfriend and enjoy the ride!!!!!!!!!!!! With a helmet and seat belt, of course!
Abrazos fuertes y muchos besos
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Sunday, April 20, 2008
No mas
Another week of Spanish school and I’m so relieved it’s my last!! I chose the school, Celas Maya, because it advertised great activities in the afternoon and I’m all about the activities. We visited a local weaving cooperative benefiting Mayan women, toured the local important historical buildings in and around Xela via a trolley, and visited the largest outdoor market in Central America not geared towards tourists. So I got to see how most Guatemalans shop for their goods: spices, dried stinky fish, clothes, purses, cloth, animals (pigs, cows, you name it and it was for sale), and even chicken claws! The ride to the market was by chicken bus, a very “fun” experience as you are always squished between people while the driver blares Guatemalan hip-hop music. I was even asked by an adorable girl for a dollar. My teacher was with me and told the girl sternly this was a bad thing to do, yikes. To further add to the uncomfortability level of the situation, there are always people coming on board while we’re stopped to sell food or ask for money. Out of everything I’ve seen and done here, riding the chicken buses are the most authentic Guatemalan experiences. I just want to see a chicken on one of them!
In general, Xela attracts a more humane crowd of people and this was apparent immediately. Students and locals here are more likely to volunteer and more into social justice as opposed to partying, although there’s still a fair share of that going on. There are ample opportunities to support organizations such as women dealing with domestic violence. My original plans were to teach Mayan children English but they require a longer stay than 1 week for this.
Unfortunately, Xela is not a pretty town and this combined with just an ok teacher and a bad homestay family has me leaving tomorrow to go back near Antigua. My favorite thing about Xela was my visit to Fuentes Georginas (hot springs) and hanging out with my friend Becky and 2 new friends, Amy and Marjolein, as well as others from the school. This whole experience of traveling has been a great way to meet people from different countries and see how differently people live. Last night, for instance, I attended my first soccer game (or futbol game to the rest of the world) with a whole group from the school. We really stuck out, a big group of western looking people who didn’t know the team’s cheers, etc. But we sure did learn them in a hurry! Well, really we just yelled Juego! when the other team kicked the ball, except when my friend yelled Jugo (juice) instead at one point!! It’s a good thing we can laugh at ourselves, there have been a number of times when I’m not quite saying the right thing and the local will look at me like I’m crazy while I think I’m saying it correctly. Anyway, Xela’s team was pretty horrible, they lost 3-0. What might have been the weirdest part of the experience was we couldn’t take in water bottles yet fireworks were allowed and were constantly going off during the game and there was even a fire from all the paper confetti at the end. Another cultural experience!
One of the more interesting things I’ve done on this trip was to visit a professor of Mayan culture and have my stars read according to the Mayan calendar!! This next paragraph is long and if you’re not into my psychology, please read no further. I went with Becky and Amy, and thank goodness I did, because Becky helped translate the parts of Spanish that I didn’t understand. Overall, it was on target and explained a few things. The color that most describes me and that will protect me is Lila, a purple/lilac color (the same color of my bridesmaid dresses, dining room wall in Guam, and current color of our second bedroom!). This color symbolizes happiness and sweetness, sweet, huh? I was very strong (the highest number, 13) in the nurturing area and family life, the downfall of this is that because I support others so much I do not always take care of myself. True of so many women, huh? So perhaps a family is in my future after all…. I am also a good judge of character, a visionary, I feel bad if I don’t have all the answers, it’s important for me to share with others, I worry a lot about others (part of the nurturing aspect, I think, and from my mother, love you, mom!), and I will have 4 earth-shattering changes in my life. The animal that most describes me is the crocodile, I’m going to have to do more research on this part as I didn’t understand this explanation. Also Mother Earth is very important to me, which I think also relates to my earth sign, Taurus. My negative energy, or character flaws are that I am very flexible to the point where I do not listen enough to myself. The trouble that I have is with my feet, a metaphor to explain that I’m having difficulty making decisions with my life right now, I’m stuck, can’t move forward or backward. Hmmm, perhaps the reason for this extended trip where I have the chance to figure things out for myself… I’m going to take this problem with my feet literally and go get a foot massage or reflexology!! In addition, money and jobs will not be hard to come by, yes! I also have frustration with losing things, whether it be friends, money or keys, not sure I buy this one. Interesting enough I need to live by water whether it be rivers or the ocean in order to recharge my energy (Seattle couldn’t be a more perfect place, especially living right by Green Lake!) and flowers and water are important for my home space. What a great excuse to buy myself flowers! Professions that suit me are social communicators, sociologists, lawyers or those working for just causes. Interesting enough, I had already come to the decision during this trip that I need to change the direction my career is going. I aim to find a job with a non-profit using my RD and CHES, if possible. So this reading was not a bad way to spend a few hours, some money and practice my Spanish….
So tomorrow morning I take the bus in to Antigua and will stay there until my plane leaves this coming Saturday!! I’m staying at a place outside of Antigua for 2 or 3 nights to just relax, study Spanish with a private tutor, hike near the volcanoes, and maybe do some yoga. Then I’m off to see the biggest touristy market in Chichicastenango and just hang out with friends in Antigua for my last 2 days!!!
Abrazos fuertes y besos
In general, Xela attracts a more humane crowd of people and this was apparent immediately. Students and locals here are more likely to volunteer and more into social justice as opposed to partying, although there’s still a fair share of that going on. There are ample opportunities to support organizations such as women dealing with domestic violence. My original plans were to teach Mayan children English but they require a longer stay than 1 week for this.
Unfortunately, Xela is not a pretty town and this combined with just an ok teacher and a bad homestay family has me leaving tomorrow to go back near Antigua. My favorite thing about Xela was my visit to Fuentes Georginas (hot springs) and hanging out with my friend Becky and 2 new friends, Amy and Marjolein, as well as others from the school. This whole experience of traveling has been a great way to meet people from different countries and see how differently people live. Last night, for instance, I attended my first soccer game (or futbol game to the rest of the world) with a whole group from the school. We really stuck out, a big group of western looking people who didn’t know the team’s cheers, etc. But we sure did learn them in a hurry! Well, really we just yelled Juego! when the other team kicked the ball, except when my friend yelled Jugo (juice) instead at one point!! It’s a good thing we can laugh at ourselves, there have been a number of times when I’m not quite saying the right thing and the local will look at me like I’m crazy while I think I’m saying it correctly. Anyway, Xela’s team was pretty horrible, they lost 3-0. What might have been the weirdest part of the experience was we couldn’t take in water bottles yet fireworks were allowed and were constantly going off during the game and there was even a fire from all the paper confetti at the end. Another cultural experience!
One of the more interesting things I’ve done on this trip was to visit a professor of Mayan culture and have my stars read according to the Mayan calendar!! This next paragraph is long and if you’re not into my psychology, please read no further. I went with Becky and Amy, and thank goodness I did, because Becky helped translate the parts of Spanish that I didn’t understand. Overall, it was on target and explained a few things. The color that most describes me and that will protect me is Lila, a purple/lilac color (the same color of my bridesmaid dresses, dining room wall in Guam, and current color of our second bedroom!). This color symbolizes happiness and sweetness, sweet, huh? I was very strong (the highest number, 13) in the nurturing area and family life, the downfall of this is that because I support others so much I do not always take care of myself. True of so many women, huh? So perhaps a family is in my future after all…. I am also a good judge of character, a visionary, I feel bad if I don’t have all the answers, it’s important for me to share with others, I worry a lot about others (part of the nurturing aspect, I think, and from my mother, love you, mom!), and I will have 4 earth-shattering changes in my life. The animal that most describes me is the crocodile, I’m going to have to do more research on this part as I didn’t understand this explanation. Also Mother Earth is very important to me, which I think also relates to my earth sign, Taurus. My negative energy, or character flaws are that I am very flexible to the point where I do not listen enough to myself. The trouble that I have is with my feet, a metaphor to explain that I’m having difficulty making decisions with my life right now, I’m stuck, can’t move forward or backward. Hmmm, perhaps the reason for this extended trip where I have the chance to figure things out for myself… I’m going to take this problem with my feet literally and go get a foot massage or reflexology!! In addition, money and jobs will not be hard to come by, yes! I also have frustration with losing things, whether it be friends, money or keys, not sure I buy this one. Interesting enough I need to live by water whether it be rivers or the ocean in order to recharge my energy (Seattle couldn’t be a more perfect place, especially living right by Green Lake!) and flowers and water are important for my home space. What a great excuse to buy myself flowers! Professions that suit me are social communicators, sociologists, lawyers or those working for just causes. Interesting enough, I had already come to the decision during this trip that I need to change the direction my career is going. I aim to find a job with a non-profit using my RD and CHES, if possible. So this reading was not a bad way to spend a few hours, some money and practice my Spanish….
So tomorrow morning I take the bus in to Antigua and will stay there until my plane leaves this coming Saturday!! I’m staying at a place outside of Antigua for 2 or 3 nights to just relax, study Spanish with a private tutor, hike near the volcanoes, and maybe do some yoga. Then I’m off to see the biggest touristy market in Chichicastenango and just hang out with friends in Antigua for my last 2 days!!!
Abrazos fuertes y besos
Y mas fotos....
These pictures are still from my time in Antigua. The first is from one of the many famous processions during Semana Santa (Holy Week), everyone involved in the procession was wearing these purple costumes and the incense literally filled the city, they also carried these heavy wooden altars while somber music played. The second is of a typical architectural style of lamp of Atingua overlooks Parque Central, where I loved to spend time and people watch. The third is of the Merced Church on Palm Sunday, I lived only a block from this church. And the last is a typical alfombra or rug, made of dyed sawdust and fruits, vegetables, and bread which are given as offerings. The typical alfombra takes as much as 8 hours to make and they are swept up or the procession stomps all over the rug so all that time spent making it of course, takes no time to destroy. But it is clearly a religious ritual.
More volcano pictures....
So these pictures are from my hike of Volcan Pacaya near Guatemala City. I went on a sunset hike and it was gorgeous!! The lava was very hot as you'd imagine and what a great view....
Finalmente....Fotos!
So finally, here are some pictures from Antigua. The first is the classic picture which everyone takes of the arch where the nuns used to cross so men could not see them with Volcan Agua in the background. The second is of Volcan Fuego, a very active volcano, which goes off almost every day and night. I have a really awesome video of it in action.... So my excuse for the delay in posting pictures is the length of time it takes to upload these pictures from my computer with the slow wifi connection and I have more than 1,000 of them so I'm having difficulty choosing which ones to post. These are from the beginning of my trip and I plan on posting more shortly. Enjoy!
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Earthquake in Guatemala
So....just in case anyone has heard anything about it, there was a 6.1 earthquake last night on the Pacific Coast of Guatemala and I could feel the tremors here in Xela!! I did not know what it was, at first I thought someone was on the roof of my room, very scary. At least I did not scream!! Anyway, all is well here...... No power outages, etc.....
Adios for now!
Adios for now!
Monday, April 14, 2008
Transportation
I thought I had seen it all in Guatemala until my trip from Rio Dulce to Coban, this the day I got off the catamaran. The bus from Rio Dulce was plush with air conditioning and even a bus attendant and snacks. Then it got sketchy as we were dropped off in El Rancho, a.k.a. El Rauncho, a tiny town where a hustler greeted us and grabbed Becky’s wheeled suitcase showing us where the “bus” transfer was to our next destination, Coban. I didn’t trust this guy so asked a woman where to go and sure enough it was the same place the slimy guy was taking us. (I just assume people are trying to take advantage of me, I feel like I am a walking quetzal, the local currency, most of the time.) The bus turned out to be a mini shuttle bus with a broken window and the employees were 2 shirtless guys, one the driver and the other the money-taker/guy who lets the driver know there’s someone on the side of the road. I had not felt more vulnerable than at that time when Becky and I had to figure out if it was safe to take this transport. We decided to because there were other women on the van. I was so glad to be traveling with someone else at this point. We literally stopped for anyone on the side of the road. At one point, there were 25 people on this tiny van. The best part was getting left on the side of the road once we reached Coban. The locals were super helpful, though, as the employees didn’t even tell us where we were but we found a taxi almost right away and made it safely to our hostel. I guess I shouldn’t have expected more as we only paid 25 quetzales, about $3.
So we quickly figure out that Coban is not a heavily touristed area and transportation to this area is infrequent and chaotic so decide to immediately figure out how we’re getting out of there. We had planned to travel to Semuc Champey the following day and stay there for a few nights then head to Xela but we did not want a repeat of our fun trip to Coban so wanted to take a direct shuttle. Our only option was to leave Coban a full day earlier than we’d planned as the next shuttle wasn’t until the following Tuesday. So we ended up doing a 1 day trip to the Semuc Champey area. Our tour included transport (a fun, bumpy, unpaved road), entrance fee to the park, a guide (who was mostly useless and this is a generous statement), lunch, etc. We met some great people: 2 French girls, 1 with an infected tooth who had to be dropped off at the hospital, and an Australian couple with a disgusting worm story. There was a hike up to a great lookout of the limestone pools and we also swam in the pools. A gorgeous place. What got lost in translation was a trip to a cave, as we had no idea this was part of the tour. It was sort of cool at first but then the guide started hunting for spiders so half of us went back early. The cave had super slippery rocks and was really creepy and dirty. I could’ve done without this part but am continually reminded of how fluid this place is. Things are never fully explained even when asked directly and you don’t know for sure what you’re going to get. Hmmm, sort of like life…..
So, the next day’s trip to Quetzaltenango, or Xela, as the locals call it after a Mayan name, was by far even worse than the trip to Coban. It took more than 8 hours in a mini-bus with half of that time on unpaved and extremely curvy roads. Guatemala has to be one of the most difficult countries to travel around with its’ hills/mountains and crazy curvy roads. There was construction in many parts as they were paving a brand new road, wonderful for future travelers and locals alike. We tried to distract ourselves with games and thankfully, the couple we were traveling with was interesting and willing to play our famous person, word association and story games. They and the bus driver thought we were fun and appreciated the distractions!!
Xela greeted us with rain and very cool weather, which I find refreshing after 2 weeks of sweating. It’s also back to city life. Xela is Guatemala’s 2nd largest city and it feels so strange to be in one, really since Seattle. Actual traffic lights look so odd. I’m so glad to be in 1 place after traveling around for 3 weeks. So now I’m back to school for my last 2 weeks!!!!
Adios mis amigos!
So we quickly figure out that Coban is not a heavily touristed area and transportation to this area is infrequent and chaotic so decide to immediately figure out how we’re getting out of there. We had planned to travel to Semuc Champey the following day and stay there for a few nights then head to Xela but we did not want a repeat of our fun trip to Coban so wanted to take a direct shuttle. Our only option was to leave Coban a full day earlier than we’d planned as the next shuttle wasn’t until the following Tuesday. So we ended up doing a 1 day trip to the Semuc Champey area. Our tour included transport (a fun, bumpy, unpaved road), entrance fee to the park, a guide (who was mostly useless and this is a generous statement), lunch, etc. We met some great people: 2 French girls, 1 with an infected tooth who had to be dropped off at the hospital, and an Australian couple with a disgusting worm story. There was a hike up to a great lookout of the limestone pools and we also swam in the pools. A gorgeous place. What got lost in translation was a trip to a cave, as we had no idea this was part of the tour. It was sort of cool at first but then the guide started hunting for spiders so half of us went back early. The cave had super slippery rocks and was really creepy and dirty. I could’ve done without this part but am continually reminded of how fluid this place is. Things are never fully explained even when asked directly and you don’t know for sure what you’re going to get. Hmmm, sort of like life…..
So, the next day’s trip to Quetzaltenango, or Xela, as the locals call it after a Mayan name, was by far even worse than the trip to Coban. It took more than 8 hours in a mini-bus with half of that time on unpaved and extremely curvy roads. Guatemala has to be one of the most difficult countries to travel around with its’ hills/mountains and crazy curvy roads. There was construction in many parts as they were paving a brand new road, wonderful for future travelers and locals alike. We tried to distract ourselves with games and thankfully, the couple we were traveling with was interesting and willing to play our famous person, word association and story games. They and the bus driver thought we were fun and appreciated the distractions!!
Xela greeted us with rain and very cool weather, which I find refreshing after 2 weeks of sweating. It’s also back to city life. Xela is Guatemala’s 2nd largest city and it feels so strange to be in one, really since Seattle. Actual traffic lights look so odd. I’m so glad to be in 1 place after traveling around for 3 weeks. So now I’m back to school for my last 2 weeks!!!!
Adios mis amigos!
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